​This is ideal for thicker yarn, when you want to make the most of it and need to join part way through a row. I also re-knot any manufacturers knots in this way, to ensure the join is firm. You can try this as an alternative to joining in new colours. Just make sure the knot is hidden in a stitch!

Have you ever wanted to make a C2C blanket, but don't know if you have enough yarn to make the size you want? Well, I've had the same dilemma and so have put together this quick calculator to give you the number of rows and approximate total weight of yarn you will need based on a small sampler.

Step 1: Make your sampler
Start by working a small square of C2C in the yarn and hook of choice. Be honest, you've probably got some spare yarn of the same type in your stash and an array of hooks, so it won't be a problem. Make sure it's a complete square (increase followed by decrease rows) and make a note of how many rows you make. The larger the sampler the more accurate the results. I worked 9 rows (5 increase rows and 4 decrease rows).

Step 2: Weigh your sampler
Once you have made your sample you will need to weigh it. The calculator uses grams as this gives a finer measure of weight. Clearly, the larger the sample, the more accurate the weight will be, as most home scales are not particularly sensitive. You may just about be able to see my sampler weighed 3 grams.

Step 3: Measure your sampler
Now measure how wide your sampler is. As it's a simple C2C it should be square! Lay the tape measure across it and smooth down lightly. You can see that my sampler was approximately 2.75" wide. If I wanted to get a more accurate measure of both weight and width I would have made a larger sampler. But I'm only after approximate values, so I know how many balls of yarn to add to my stash!

Step 4: Enter your specifications
You will be asked to specify some dimensions ...

• How wide you want your final blanket to be. (I want a 36" blanket)
• How wide your sampler is. (Mine is 2.75")
• How many rows you made (I made 9 rows)
• How much your sampler weighs. (Mine was 3 grams)
  Make sure you click out of the weight box to see the total weight change.
  

The calculator will tell you how many increase rows, decrease rows, number of rows in total, approximate total yarn weight needed and the final size of the blanket. If you try out my specifications you'll see I need to make 131 rows (66 increase rows and 65 decrease rows) and will need approximately 523 g of yarn. I'll be getting 6 x 100 g balls just to make sure!

NOTE: The final size may not be the same as the size you specified you wanted. However, it will be the nearest to that size based on your yarn, hook and tension taken from your sampler. If you want an exact size, change the hook or tension until you get the desired size. In reality, a blanket is not an exact science, so as long as it's within an inch or two, I'm normally happy. :)

Scroll down! Have a go! Let me know what you think?

Please leave me any comments on improvements or issues. I'm always looking for ways to make my freebies better.

BASIC C2C BLANKET CALCULATOR

This calculator will give approximate results and are based on your sampler and measurements given excluding any borders. Please refer to the instructions on how to make and measure your sampler.

Have you got some fluffy yarn you don't know what to do with? Then why not try making a fluffy lampshade out of it!

WARNING: Do not do this with a lamp holding a normal incandescent or low energy bulb, as they get hot. Only do this if the lamp contains an LED bulb, as this remains cold.

You will need:

• A lamp with an LED bulb and shade (My shade was approximately 8.5" high and 10" in diameter).
• ​A ball or two of fluffy yarn (I used King Cole Luxe Fur Eyelash Yarn in Ostrich and I only had one ball).
• A crochet hook (I used a size 8mm as my yarn was chunky).
• Normal yarn that matches (I used black double knit yarn I had in my stash).
• Darning needle.

Terms used are UK based.

​Step 1

Chain until the length goes around the shade tightly. The yarn will loosen up as you work. Slip stitch to the first stitch to create a loop.

Step 2

In third chain from hook work a Triple Crochet.
* Chain 1. Miss a Chain. Triple Crochet into next stitch.
​** Repeat from * to ** to end. Slip stitch into first chain space.
​

Step 4

Repeat Step 3 until the work reaches the top of the shade.

You want the work to be stretched tightly over the shade, so you get the effect of the chain spaces. As I only had one ball of yarn, I had to really stretch the work!! You can see from the photo below that the work only reached the centre of the shade before stretching.

If you want a more dense looking shade with no visible holes you may need two or maybe three balls of yarn.

Step 5

Put the finished tube over the shade. Pull the bottom edge of your work over the bottom edge of the shade. Using your matching non-fluffy yarn, join the yarn in the bottom row of your work then slip stitch around this bottom row. You will find the slip stitch edge tightens everything up. You need this row to be smaller than the shade circumference, so the work stays in place when you stretch it. Fasten off at the end and darn in the tail.
​
​Step 6

Pull the finished tube up over the top of the shade. The bottom slip stitched edge may not stay where it should if you've had to really stretch it (like I did). Don't worry. You can adjust it as you go.

Slip stitch the top edge like you did at the bottom. As I only had one ball of yarn, the last slip stitch row was quite tough to do. I had to keep rolling the bottom edge back over the edge of the shade. However, once you get half way round it starts getting easier. Secure yarn at the end and darn in the tail.

​This beautiful orchid was a gift from a friend and I loved the colours so much I had to take a photo and now use it as my phone wallpaper. It was such a lovely surprise. I was recovering after a small operation and she popped round to try and cheer me up. It definitely worked!

​The top three swatches make a gorgeous colour combo. Use the dark purple colour for definition and the mustard colour as an accent.